Choosing the Right Outdoor Light Cable

Outdoor lights run off a power source such as your house wiring. You’ll need to find an appropriate socket to line the junction box and ensure it has RCD protection.

Electric cables degrade over time, with UV exposure causing core insulation to crack and break down. To combat this, use cables with black sheathing.

Choosing the Right Cable

Choosing the right cable is one of the most important steps in any lighting plan. The wire must be able to withstand the elements, including the temperature and humidity fluctuations of your outdoor setting as well as potential rodent chewing. It must also be rated to handle your lighting’s specific voltage needs.

When it comes to choosing a cable for your lights, look for a UL-rated product with a heavy-duty exterior jacket. The UL rating will be on the outside of the cable and will tell you whether it is rated for indoor or outdoor use, its voltage capacity and other relevant information. You will also want to make sure the cable you choose is stranded or solid. Solid wire is made of a single wire while stranded wire is comprised of multiple thin wires that are twisted together.

If you’re going to be running a long run of cable, opt for the thicker gauge. outdoor light cable Thicker wires carry more electricity efficiently over longer distances.

For example, you would want to use a heavier gauge, such as 16-gauge wire for runs of 80 feet or more. This will ensure your light bulbs are getting enough power and will keep the wattage on the line within your transformer’s capability. You should calculate your wattage requirements based on the number of lights you will be adding to the line, and always check your wiring for any errors before using the system (socket test with a voltage tester). You may also consider using a wire that is designed specifically for low-voltage landscape lighting. These types of cables will typically have a THHN or THWN core and have a thermoplastic insulation, plus a nylon coating.

Laying Out Your Light Strands

Unlike indoor electrical wiring, outdoor light wires are exposed to moisture and other weather factors that can wreak havoc on cables. That’s why it’s important to use a cable specifically designed for exterior lighting applications. Fortunately, there are plenty of options to choose from.

Start by measuring your space and determining the amount of string lights you need to cover it. Most light strings come in standard lengths, but you can also order custom-length strands for a truly unique look.

When the time comes to hang your strands, take the time to plan out their route. Most people like to create a V pattern, but you can also use a W or zig zag pattern for added interest. Depending on your style, you may also want to add a horizon point or multiple points of illumination for a more dramatic effect.

Once you’ve mapped out your route, it’s time to begin the installation process. Starting at the plug end of your strand, carefully pull the cord taut but leave a small amount of slack. Then, using a coaxial staple (available at most hardware stores) drive the first staple into an exposed beam or ceiling joist. Be sure to avoid driving the staple through the insulation or into the plug itself.

Repeat the process, stapling or adhering hooks about every foot or so until you’ve installed all of your string lights. Be sure to leave enough slack so that you can easily unplug the lights when needed.

Attaching the Lights to the Cable

When hanging lights, you want to make sure that the wires remain above ground and away from people’s feet. To keep this from happening, all outdoor lighting wires are connected to a transformer that then plugs into an exterior power outlet (or, in the case of timer-based systems, into a wall switch). The transformer wires the light fixtures with either a photocell or a timer, allowing you to control your lighting at the push of a button.

Start by identifying anchor points like trees, fence posts or pergolas that can support the weight of your string lights. Then, if needed, install the necessary hardware to attach them. Next, lay out your light strands to create the look you’re going for. They can be strung in straight lines, zigzagged across the yard or patio, centralized around a point like a circus tent, or randomly for a more whimsical style.

When you’re ready to hang your first strand, pull the cable taut but don’t tighten it. Starting at your end anchor point, place a zip tie on the first bulb to secure it. Continue along the strand, making sure you don’t exceed the recommended number of bulbs on a single run of cable. As you work, staple every foot or so, being careful not to staple through the wiring.

Installing the Fixture

Once you have your cable and light strands run, it’s time to install the fixture itself. If you’re using a low voltage setup, most garden lights will sit on stakes that you push into M16 large head PVC the ground and draw power from a transformer that runs off of ordinary two-core and earth wire. However, it’s important to understand that any permanent wiring should use a fused connection unit and have its own subpanel rather than running off of the main house circuit if possible.

If you’re using a high voltage system, your installation will be slightly more complicated. You’ll need to run a conduit from your main fused connection unit to your lighting junction box. Then, from the junction box you’ll connect a single insulated 1 mm2 two-core and earth wire to the light fitting. Finally, you’ll link the switch drop and light supply wires from the junction box to the fixture itself with a pair of DryConn waterproof connectors.

When it comes to installing your new fixtures, make sure the screw holes are aligned with the bracket on the light and tighten them firmly. If you’re using a spotlight, take care not to over-light the area with too many of them (this can be a common problem in DIY). Finish the job by covering all exposed cable and connections with silicone sealant to prevent water and moisture ingress.